Danny Uhlmann and I thought a couple pitches of ice climbing would be fun during our day off. The weather forecast seemed fine: no precip forecasted and low winds. We took the 9,000-foot Midi lift up from Chamonix to the alpine and trudged over to our route: the Chere Couloir on Mont Blanc du Tacul, a sub-peak of Mont Blanc. As we neared the route we realized the wind was funneling through the pass where the climb was located… Here’s what ensued.
The Chere follows a gully in the rock up the right side of the Triangle du Tacul.
Danny geared up, minus goggles. We led with our faces down, blind, climbing by feel. Our frozen sunglasses protected our eyes with a layer of ice.
At the top of the six-pitch route we exited the wind venturi — and the raging sandstorm subsided enough for a cup of mud.
Then we rappelled back into the blizzard.
And experienced a nice exfoliating facial for the boys.
Final rap down over the bergschrund. Let’s get out of here!
We ran back to the Midi station and zoomed down to the warm valley below. Next time we’ll bring goggles!