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Joe Stock: Climbing Mount Logan + King Trench

Mount Logan is serious wilderness. Not wilderness with trails and wildflowers, but WILDERNESS. Like nobody there. For 16 days of our 21-day trip we had Logan to ourselves. Why? Because Logan is the second highest mountain in North America. At 19,550 feet, Logan is shorter than Alaska’s Denali at 20,320 feet. So who cares about something that’s second? Me! And three customers and guide Tino Villaneuva.

Climbing Mount Logan via the King Trench route is similar to Denali’s West Buttress. But without the safety net of hundreds of people, helicopters, medical personel and rangers, Logan is a notch more serious. Our 3-week trip was an adventure, meaning it had an unknown outcome. We found little information about the route and just waited each day to see where our route would go and where we’d camp.

Mount Logan is a long, high altitude trudge. Roped together, we hauled sleds and double-carried most of the route. I recommend the Osprey Aether 85 for expeditions on my gear list for clients and everyone on our team had the Aether 85. They are AWESOME expedition packs!

Finally, after battling up the MacCarthy Gap at 14,000 feet, we reached the summit of Mount Logan in Canada on June 15 at 5 p.m. Our summit day was 15 hours long and freeeeezing cold. We managed to pull our facemasks down a few minutes for the photo above. See more Logan photos on Joe’s blog.

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